After a four-hour bus rude to Porto, we took a taxi to our lovely Casa Joy spartment on Calle Santa Catarina…just down from the main shopping district! Dale was not thrilled by this. However, a few blocks down (and I do mean downhill!), this street becomes a limited access walking space. It’s also tiled in black and white, extending all the way down to the main Plaza.
Tile. If there’s one thing that stands out in Portugal, and definitely in Porto, it’s the beautiful tiles! Covering the outside of buildings, inside them, on stairways, rooftop finials, ceilings, and more, they add brilliant color so that even a rainy day shines! They display everything from complex hand painted tiles that create murals, to intricate designs, to rich solid colors. And, yes, you can buy them. The trick is separating the genuine from the kitsch.
Port-O!
Of course, Porto’s most outstanding product is Port! Across the Douro River are the tasting lodges, and being loyal Taylor Port drinkers, we headed directly there for our first stop. After a history (over 300 years!) and a tour, we enjoyed tasting some of their different port selections. Afterward, we were treated to haute cuisine in the Barao Fladgate restaurant in the winery. Indescribable! With a view to match.
As fans of Rick Steves walking tours, we also completed two recommended strolls. Quickly learning that weather is very unpredictable here, we purchased an umbrella first thing. Locals carry them everywhere, even when it’s sunny…you just never know when a rain shower will pop up! If it turns into a downpour, simply stop underneath a convenient awning or step into a sheltered doorway until it lets up. They never last too long.
Standouts
Our favorite activities (besides the Port tasting, of course) were some of the lesser-known stops on the strolls. These include spending some time in the huge Bolhao Market, gawking at the painted tile murals in the train station, a visit to Base, a wine bar located in the raised Praca de Lisboa park, literally planted on top of a parking garage/shopping mall!
Visiting the city’s top viewpoints and ambling down the riverfront, stopping for a drink or to listen to a musician also made up a part of our days in Porto.
Randomness
VW bus sighting, Europe’s poshest McDonalds, super vegetarian dinner, snap decision to take a short “river cruise,” and meeting a young lady at the Porto Cathedral next to an El camino marker, who was beginning her coastal Portugues pilgrimage the next day! Note: There are 9 official routes for the El Camino de Santiago.
On our last night, we decided to check out a place billed as an American burger joint, home of the “Smash Burger”, called The Holy Sandwich.
This was an experience. We were already down in the Ribiera, and decided to check it out, arriving about 15 minutes prior to opening, just to have a look. There was already a line! Which we quickly joined, only the 3rd party back. 10 minutes later, the line was about 30 people deep for a place that holds maybe about 25. As soon as the door opened it was hoppin! We got our smash burgers with fries, relishing an “American” meal for the first time since leaving home! When we left, the line was no shorter than when we went in…evidently it’s the place to be for young adults. Yes, we were the token “old fogies!”
After only two and a half days, we reluctantly said “adeus” to Porto. At least for now…